Cititorii cotidianului New York Times despre Bucuresti/Romania

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1.
July 9th,
2008
1:04 pm

Matt, I am loving this tour and all your articles. I’m spending the semester in Italy this fall and, seeing as I am only a poor student, I plan to follow your steps as closely and frugally as I can! Thank you so much for all your great advice and fantastic writing. I can’t wait for more!

— Posted by Jane
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2.
July 9th,
2008
1:26 pm

I visited Buchcarest in 1969 when it was Communist-run. I visited my former husband’s family and fell in love with their warmth and sincerity. But the country was scary back then. Spys followed us, and called on the phone, mainly because my former husband had left Romania when he was 13. I have fond memories of the country, including a short trip to Black Sea. The Frugal Traveler’s article made me want to return.
edith tarbescu

— Posted by Edith Tarbescu
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3.
July 9th,
2008
2:43 pm

Matt,

I visted Bucharest in January 2008 for three days, arriving, as you did, on the train from Istanbul (at 2 a.m. due to a huge snow storm). I enjoyed the Opera (twice) and the Roman Atheneum concert hall–one of the most beautiful olde world halls in Europe–not to be missed, where I heard the Georges Enescu Philharmonic play Beethoven’s 7th. Also very worthwhile was the Georges Enescu home, where I was the only visitor.

I stayed at–and would recommend–the Friends Hostel, a 10 minute walk from the Gare du Nord (where they admitted me at 2:30 a.m.!). Safe, comfortable, friendly and inexpensive dorm residence.

On the downside, my wallet was stolen off my person by 4-5 teenagers on Stravopolus St. after having had dinner at the Chocolate Restaurant (mediocre–try the olde world Romanian place immediately next door–superb!).

It’s a great city. This was my second visit and I’ll probably go back.

— Posted by Douglas Koop
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4.
July 9th,
2008
2:45 pm

What a shame you missed Bulgaria and the lovely cities of Sofia & Rousse, as well as the beautiful southern Pirin, Rila and Rhodope mountain ranges, on your journey through. Bucharest is interesting, but if you truly seek a bargain, Bulgaria offers sites just as lovely and at a cheaper cost.

— Posted by Milichka
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5.
July 9th,
2008
2:48 pm

Wonderful article illustrating a slice of life in Bucharest. It is unfortunate that corrupt officials and former Securitate agents still pull most of the strings in the country, blocking attempts to bring to justice those responsible for the political crimes committed in December 1989, June 1990, December 1990, January 1991, and others. To this day, despite strong efforts by Viorel Ene, the president of the Association of Victims of Miners Violence, those responsible for ordering the barbaric crack down on June 13-15, 1990 have not been brought to justice. Instead they are free to enjoy the good life in Bucharest and throughout Romania.

— Posted by Dan Giurca
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6.
July 9th,
2008
2:55 pm

Hi Matt! I’m glad you had a good time in Bucharest, but having lived in Romania for a year and half trying to run a tourism business, I would warn anyone away from visiting the country. Corruption is rampant and visible at all levels and the visitor can expect the Romanians to try to rip you off at every opportunity. Customer service barely exists and the services are well below what one would expect in a European country, yet with EU succession, prices have increased to the point that it is more expensive to visit Romania than Austria. Meanwhile, the country is filthy, with trash everywhere, including the rivers. People have been saying “give it five years” for well more than five years now. Unfortunately, joining the EU did not improve anything, as now the Romanian government thinks it is “in the club” and can just do whatever it wants and the people want the wealth they see in Western Europe without any desire to work for it.

— Posted by Scarlett
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7.
July 9th,
2008
3:18 pm

I visited Romania back in 1997 and 1998. Still is the greatest place to get a taste of Old Europe. the people are indeed warm and hospitable. Bucharest and Iasi are fabulous cities and the Transylvanian region is outstanding. This article is superbly written and sheds light on the beauty of a place and people that all too often are spoken of in freakish and uncomplimentary terms in the American press. My only question: The outdoor venue called La Motoare, is that not Laptaria lui Enache? If so, it’s been around for ages and is indeed a unique place to hang out and relax and probably considered an institution.

— Posted by Jackie
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8.
July 9th,
2008
3:35 pm

Writing as a travel agent, sadly Bucuresti is over-priced and over-rated. Maybe students looking for cheap beer will like the city, however more sophisticated travellers find it ugly and polluted with poverty staring from many corners. (It is Europe’s most polluted city, since Romania’s rulers cannot grasp town planning. But then why should they? Transparency International just rated Romania a pathetic 3.5 out of 10 for integrity - more corrupt than Colombia or parts of Africa.) Yes, there are a few interesting museums, but that’s all. The best that one can say for Romania is that it’s a sometimes picturesque piece of the Third World handily accessible to Western Europeans.

Budapest in Hungary is a far more beautiful and more interesting city…and it’s cheaper.

— Posted by Calul Balan
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9.
July 9th,
2008
3:42 pm

In five or ten years, there’ll be only sidewalk cafes–no sidewalks. At least, that’s what happened to Prague! ;)

— Posted by Erin
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10.
July 9th,
2008
3:47 pm

Thank you for this! Romania is rarely featured (to the travelers’ disadvantage, I believe) in travel sections of magazines. As a native Romanian, and therefore, biased, I can tell you the country and all its cities and villages are the undiscovered gems of Europe. Because Romania has been slow to recover from its post-Comunist revolution, little has been done to market the natural beauties of the country. On a positive note, it is still one of the most affordable destinations in Europe - with plenty to offer for the price. Bucharest used to be known as the

If you travel, do not miss the National Museum of the Romanian Peasant in Bucharest; the painted monasteries in northern Moldavia; a cruise on the Danube river; the Fagarasan peak, one of the highsest in Europe; a home-made Romanian wine and a genuine peasant meal (polenta with fresh cheese and stuffed grape leaves).

Happy traveling!

— Posted by Oana Nechita
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11.
July 9th,
2008
4:01 pm

fun trip. travel on turkish train!

ns

— Posted by Todd
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12.
July 9th,
2008
4:05 pm

I love your blog entries but it is a shame you decided to skip beautiful Bulgaria with its wonderful nature and rich culture and history. Maybe next year :)

— Posted by Niko
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13.
July 9th,
2008
4:11 pm

Jackie — Laptaria lui Enache is the downstairs bar. The upstairs terrace is called La Motoare, so Matt is right on that one.

Matt — it’s sort of cute that whoever provided you with the Romanian bits at the end had you call yourself the astute, rather than the frugal, traveller. I’m really glad you enjoyed Romania. It is an amazing place, and if you find someone to take you around, you are guaranteed to have a great time.

— Posted by Cos
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14.
July 9th,
2008
5:04 pm

I entirely agree with Scarlett. Bucharest is full of garbage and unless you speak native Romanian you are liable to be ripped off. Until a few years ago it was inexpensive, so even if you were cheated and robbed the damage was manageable. Not any more. I recommend Istanbul: far more civilized, interesting, historic, beautiful, and tourist-friendly.

— Posted by Thomas
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15.
July 9th,
2008
5:21 pm

Romania is an awful place to do business, but it’s one of the nicest countries to visit in Central-Eastern Europe. The contrast of post-communistic institutions and beautiful places with nice people makes it a cool destination.

Besides, it’s cheap, especially if you go eat a Romanian kebab instead of wasting money in the bad service restaurants. Parts of Bucharest crave for modernity, often in ridiculous ways, but there are plenty of picturesque sights and opportunities.

I myself visited the Museum of Contemporary Art and found myself wandering alone between those huge halls. Where else could you wander alone through Europe’s biggest building, if not in Bucharest? That alone was worth the trip :)

As I could understand, Bucharest is not necessarily representative for Romania in terms of mentality. Bucharestans have an unusual appeal for sarcasm and depression. Anyways, once you remove this layer, they prove to be very cool people. Glad you had fun!

Rolf K.

— Posted by Rolf K.
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16.
July 9th,
2008
5:26 pm

Great article. Bucharest does also, however, have its downsides. As others have commented, it is a very dirty city and expensive. You also neglected to mention the fact that stray dogs run rampant in practically every sector of the city.

— Posted by David
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17.
July 9th,
2008
5:29 pm

Wonderful article illustrating a slice of life in Bucharest. It is unfortunate that corrupt officials and former Securitate agents still pull most of the strings in the country, blocking attempts to bring to justice those responsible for the political crimes committed in December 1989, June 1990, December 1990, January 1991, and others. To this day, despite strong efforts by Viorel Ene, the president of the Association of Victims of Miners Violence, those responsible for ordering the barbaric crack down on June 13-15, 1990 have not been brought to justice. Instead they are free to enjoy the good life in Bucharest and throughout Romania - after stealing millions, if not billions of dollars, their lifestyle is anything but frugal.

dangiurca.4t.com

— Posted by Dan Giurca
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18.
July 9th,
2008
5:50 pm

I had decided to skip Bucharest on my trip this summer, but now I’m reconsidering… Matt, you write about my motherland, you share my last name, and you name check my hometown. This article is crazy meta….

— Posted by Michael
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19.
July 9th,
2008
6:03 pm

I was born in Bucharest, so I have every reason to be biased for it, but really, it’s not the best place to see in Romania, especially in the summer. Please, please, go to see Iasi, the monasteries of Moldova, and Maramures… you’ll see things in the north of the country that aren’t an imitation of anything else, that aren’t a new Paris, a new Prague, or a new Berlin… that are, quite simply, one of a kind.

(By the way, I think the German towns in Transylvania are wonderful too — but they reminded my German boyfriend of, well, towns in Germany, so it might not be the most unique experience.)

— Posted by Irina
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20.
July 9th,
2008
6:12 pm

Matt,

Wow, what an interesting eye opening article. I was in Bucharest in June of 1990 when the coal miners came into the city and crushed the student protests. It was not a pretty site. The entire city was in shambles. I stood where Ceausescu gave his last speech outside his palace. The food markets smelled, the train stations were filled with orphaned kids, the building were shot up and people were getting beaten in front of my eyes. Luckily, a police officer protected me and a friend after a crowd turned on us for taking pictures. I’m happy to see that city has changed for the better because quite frankly it was like stepping back to 1945 when I was there last.

— Posted by Sean Bello
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21.
July 9th,
2008
6:45 pm

I just love every word of what you had to say and every moment of what you experienced back home. I totally long for that… place, beer, food, music, atmosphere, experience, Romania.
I live in Hawai’i for over a year now, but I never stopped believing that the best is still to come. Bucharest will get there soon.
I hope this trip brought you one step closer to my heritage which I love and honor.

— Posted by Catri
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22.
July 10th,
2008
1:33 am

Matt,
Very good article and quite exciting to think of Bucharest. In a way the place is still virgin and you can have plenty of cool experiences as a tourist.
And, unlike Bulgaria, it’s quite safe and easy going.

Klara

— Posted by Klara
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23.
July 10th,
2008
2:20 am

2 things you missed, the packs of wild dogs that can encircle you late at night walking back to your hostel and the women, some of the most beautiful I’ve seen in all of Europe.

— Posted by Franz Staugler
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24.
July 10th,
2008
3:16 am

E pacat ca strainii vorbesc de bine Bucurestiul, iar romanii nu. Lasati coruptia in pace, si vedeti lucrurile frumoase! In posturile de mai sus au aparut bulgari ce isi fac loby pentru tara. E pacat!
Romania has many beautiful things to see! It’s changing, and we’re changing. Like every country we have bad things and good things also. Come and visit the good side!

— Posted by Ardei
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25.
July 10th,
2008
5:08 am

I have lived and worked in Bucharest for 15 very formative years and watched this city evolve from a post strongman influenced, mono-colord, sort of sepia cast dimly lit place, to a (mostly) happy,Technicolored place, full of expensive boutiques, many grand hotels and many dozen restaurants which easily would attract clientele in NY or London, say.

There is too much traffic and sure one might be overcharged, but only by a few, and the positive vibes of this city far outweigh the occasional rip offs. Indeed, one feels safer here than in other bigger cities.

I was very pleased to read a positive review of Bucharest. Its all too easy to dwell on other areas. And understand that Bucharest isn’t Romania by all means and one should see the magic of Bucovina in the North, or Alp like Poina Brasov, or Sibiu which was last year’s cultural capital of Europe and has so much to offer or the many yet largely untouched villages like Maramures and the spas the dot the Romanian landscape or Black Sea Resorts such as Eforie Nord and its thereputic mud baths.

— Posted by Andrew Littauer
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26.
July 10th,
2008
10:17 am

Hey Matt,
Nice that you visited Romania and had good things to share. I have visited the city numerous times and it’s one of the places I had best fun in. Glad to repport dogs aren’t a problem anymore, while traffic is insane. Apparently all Romanians afford now to buy a car.
I’ve stayed at Vila Helga Hostel for only 10 E per night and had all needed decent conditions. Now made friends among Romanians and stay with them when visiting the city.
I don’t know how soon Bucharest will improve its “work-in-progress” status: 5 years, 10 years, 50 years, but people seem to take it as it is. They had worse since WW2, which is exactly where time stopped for the city. I love the old houses.

BTW, I liked the lake shots, was thinking that maybe Bucharest is the capital with the biggest number of lakes I’ve seen.
Have you been to Lake Morri? Remember going with some German fellows with inflatable boats at night. Very cool memory.

— Posted by Marko
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27.
July 10th,
2008
11:12 am

Just back from a first visit to Romania of only two days.

Day One in Bucharest was taken up meeting three local residents (a freelance photographer, a distinguished architect, and the co-publisher of two-year-old TimeOut Bucharest), courtesy of a Romanian friend in London. Day Two involved a day trip to Sinaia (site of Peles Castle, the mountain retreat of the former King of Romania), Bran and Brasov with a tour guide.

The three people I met on Day One ranged in age from about thirty to fifty five. They are clearly pulled between the pros and cons of Communism and Capitalism. Said one,”We had a guaranteed job and lots of free time under Communism, but now we have neither!”

Bucharest’s buldings evoked the thought, ‘A Thousand Shades of Gray’. These unremittingl shades of one hue only contrast with the warm pastels that are so welcoming in and around other geographies like the Mediterranean.

Stray dogs were apparent everywhere, both in town and out. Matt Gross is dead on about that.

While the streets of Bucharest were fairly free of trash, many roads are in a poor state of repair. One cab driver lost his way and left the cab to ask for directions..which was fine, except that he left the handbrake off and the cab slid backwards till thankfully a bump in road brought it to a halt…

Traffic was heavy in town. My photographer friend assured me that travel by bicycle was by far the best way to get around.

My architect contact, clearly a well-educated person under Communism, lamented the fact that she could not get her son to pick up a book and read.

The food that I experienced at La Mama, a much hallowed chain favored by guide books, was beyond disgusting. A chicken salad contained hard little dried-up balls of what was allegedly chicken but which I could not have given even to a stray dog.

Thank God I had the whit to stay at the Hilton where the rooms were clean, simple, with good amenities and food. The concierges Vasile and Daniel were both great and truly understand the meaning of giving good service which I appropriately recognized.

The day trip was exhausting, from eight in the morning to eight at night. Lucia, my guide, was a lady of a certain age who had seen much if not all of post war Romania. She loved to talk…

Out of town, litter is strewn everywhere along river banks where recreating overweight men and women wander about aimlessly in the water in undershirts and tired, drab clothing.

Sinaia was a major disappointment, except for the monastery which is a gem. The former royal palace, Peles, is depressing. Its exterior, including its gardens, is falling apart from years of neglect. Its interior - unless you happen to adore heavy, over-ornate German architecture and furnishings - is dark and gloomy and very, very busy.

The main street of Sinaia is utterly characterless but for the vestiges of some late eighteenth and early nineteenth century buildings. Tourists in shorts and T-shirts abound. You could just as well be in any tourist-filled resort you care to name. Any charm left in Sinaiai is in the surrounding leafy hills and within the monastery walls.

Bran was a bit better and evidently the area locals are better off than their compatriots in and around Sinaia. Bran castle is worth a visit, but be prepared to climb a lot of stairs or stay clear. Tourist shops are loaded with stuff that no one seems to want to buy, including Romanian peasant outfits which probably wouldn’t play too well in New York.

Brasov - well, the famous central square was almost obliterated from sight by tents for some festival or other. We drove through once, then turned for home.

Did this visitor really hunger for more? Well, unless Maramures is really all that it’s cracked up to be (but no mod cons there, for sure) it may be a while before I return…

— Posted by Anthony Clifton
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28.
July 10th,
2008
11:21 am

Bucharest is great, but it’s the Romanian women that make the trip so enjoyable.

They are beautiful and I married the most gorgeous of them all…my Gabita.

— Posted by MRB
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29.
July 10th,
2008
11:24 am

Great article. I am probably a little biased when it comes to Romania, having lived there from 1976-84 and visiting 3 more times in 2001, 03 & 06 (an most likely returning in 09). I often find myself trying to convince people that Romania is not a part of Russia or Ukraine and there is more to it than communism, Ceaucescu, orphans, Romi and AIDS babies. I liked articles, like this one, that show there is more to it than that. It is good that he had a guide. I do caution people who do not know the language nor have a native guide as the people will try to take advantage of you if they know u are a foreigner. In 2003, I instructed my fiancee not to speak English while in a cab. The prices could have easily doubled. If you like to haggle and know the language, you can get some great deals.

Definitely worth the visit right now, but with caution. Bucuresti is also under heavy, heavy construction right now, with almost every street and highway getting upgraded. I would wait until next year.

— Posted by Nellu Mazilu
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30.
July 10th,
2008
11:49 am

Of, Bucurestiule, oras al contrastelor!!!

— Posted by Elisabeta
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31.
July 10th,
2008
12:45 pm

Matt,

Glad to see you visited Romania — really a very interesting country. I spent a couple of weeks in Romania a few years ago, and Bucharest was definately the low point. Weird communist architecture, mixed with dilapidated buildings. The nightlife scene, though, was pretty cool. I managed to find several places that stayed open until all hours of the night. Maybe they were different than

Its unfortunate that you couldn’t get out of town and up into Transylvania. Its interesting an mix of dracula tourism and authentic country life. next time, maybe you could get out of town, and up into the mountains.

— Posted by Andrew
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32.
July 10th,
2008
2:34 pm

just returned from romania. since my last visit in 1979 - a total turnaround. now there is color and people are not aftraid to talk. sure bucharest needs to improve, but it was a pleasure to visit the royal museum, the peasant museum and the parks.
stayed at an agrotourism place is sibiel-charming, clean and colorful and had a great mamaliga (polenta) dish with cheese and homemade wine.

hope they preserve the saxon cities.

It is not cheap anymore, but that should not be the main criteria.

— Posted by miriam arato
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33.
July 10th,
2008
2:40 pm

If you are going up to Vilnius next, you should jaunt up to Tallinn, Estonia. Believe me its so worth it, and very affordable. I voted for Gdansk btw, but I’d pick Tallinn first :D

— Posted by Tommy Lexxus
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34.
July 10th,
2008
4:14 pm

Interesting - but no Transylvania?
Mary Shelley is spinning in her grave, and Dr.Frankenstein is channeling the NYT to find out why the Frugal Traveler couldn’t cobble together an itinerary out to the old homestead…
Looking forward to LITHUANIA…WILL BE TAKING NOTES - I plan to go…
P.S. Still on the fence about Gdanzig…

— Posted by Eileen M. O'Shea
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35.
July 10th,
2008
4:16 pm

Yes, #28, Romanian women ARE beautiful…and talented. Gabriela, my Romanian daughter-in-law back here in the States, is our pride and joy. WPB

— Posted by WPB
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36.
July 10th,
2008
4:28 pm

As a Romanian, and most importantly as a Bucharest resident, I am disappointed with this article. First of all, the Bucharest socio-cultural scene is not comprised only by polenta, stuffed cabbage, and shaorma. I think the author got distracted from his quest for “the cool”. I must say, the article amused me, especially when reading how “avant-garde” a kitsch, overpriced jacket was. “Come visit Bucharest! We have clothes that will make you feel like a movie star, albeit one from the 80’s.” And what the hell was that whole “terrace revolution” thing? Viva la revolucion? Maybe the guide was excited about terraces because his parents’ village didn’t have any. He certainly did a great job in furthering the cliches about romanians. If the author would have been taking a tour of, say, Transylvania, i’m sure that “Dracula” would have been on top of his vocabulary list (seconded only by “communist”, of course). Good high-school newspaper writing. keep it up.

— Posted by iamildumil
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37.
July 10th,
2008
8:20 pm

Matt~
So glad you stopped in one of the most interesting and haunting places in Europe. I too felt the emptiness of the hollowed communist buildings and the false metal and glass trappings of a new culture.
Too bad you didn’t get out to the countryside! Next visit!
Thanks for the great articles!

— Posted by Natalie
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38.
July 11th,
2008
12:13 am

Yeap… nice isn’t it? I don’t know in wich Bucharest you were, but it’s a junkyard! Maybee te 2 main streets, but that’s all! I’m sorry to read articles like this… only like half of it it’s truth. Next time I would suggest to you, if you come to Romania to visit Moldova and Transylvania if you want to see something realy nice. One more thing 100 euros for a day in Bucharest dosent worth it, at all! Have save and real trips from now on!

— Posted by Gerard
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39.
July 11th,
2008
1:24 am

Good to see that you were enchanted with Buc, given your short stay.. What more can one ask ?
I agree with other posts that Buc in no way represents Ro.. It was most enjoyable 15 years ago when there were few cars on the streets, few shops with anything on the shelves,& my friends were happier before the onslaught of consumerism.. A cold Ursus was/is a fair price..
FYI, Ceausescu’s Palace challenges the Pentagon as the largest structure in the World !! He got his inspiration from trips to North Korea.. NOROC !!
Bryce in Poiana Brasov

— Posted by Bryce
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40.
July 11th,
2008
7:43 am

I accept that everyone has their own travel preferences. But a “civilized” destination (as used in a comment above) is essentially short-hand for long tourist lines, global restaurant chains and 24-hour access to everything else you can get back home. Romania is wonderful precisely because it is still relatively unknown to travelers, and takes you outside of your comfort-zone. Yes, there’s some pick-pocketing. Yes, things can be a little rough-around-the-edges. But after two years of Peace Corps service in this special country, I feel safer in Bucharest than just about any American city, hands down. Live a little, people: Travel is about adventure!

Matt, good luck with the rest of the trip, and to my many Romanian friends: Toate cele bune!!

— Posted by Jonathan
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41.
July 11th,
2008
10:42 am

****************************
****************************
This is absurd! I grew up in Romania during communist and have seen and felt it change. Stating that Romania’s communist regime forced people to not be social is inaccurate. Horia Diaconescu is a misguided individual posing knowledgeable just to get a little bit of publicity. Pathetic and a joke. Lots of restaurants and cafes had outdoor seating and many people gathered in public. I grew up with the term “hai la o terasa’ (go to a outdoor cafe) if anything people are less social now after communism when people don’t have to huddle together to solve difficult problems.
During Communism the government oppressed you and now the local criminals do. I love Romania and it will always be my home but get your facts straight before publishing an article in a widely read popular venue.
********************************
********************************

— Posted by Mihai
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42.
July 11th,
2008
10:47 am

Matt, I enjoyed reading your impressions about cool Bucharest and part of beeing cool is local contemporary art.Are there any emerging new artists represented by galleries ?I have seen some spraypaint art on canvass by a rom. artist that was quite unique.I would love to know moreabout such artists. Rita,born in Arad,Rom.

— Posted by rita
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43.
July 11th,
2008
10:50 am

I second that #36

— Posted by Mihai
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44.
July 11th,
2008
3:00 pm

” ME, FRIEND…”
With that bit of cultural kitsch aside, despite your pointedly avoiding the “kitschy” (Transylvania) on your blog, Bronx Rasberries to you Romanians. Get over it!
For the WEEK 10: I thinsk Gdansk, thansk.
P.S.:Do you only count “button” entries for this leg of the trip?

— Posted by Eileen M. O'Shea
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45.
July 11th,
2008
3:02 pm

Sorry Matt, but there was no terrace revolution … as with many cities in Europe, Bucharest has had outdoor cafes for many, many years. As said by Mihai “hai la o terasa” is and has been the common “let’s go out [to a terrace bar]”.

Asside from that, I really enjoyed this ariticle. Like some of the other Romanians that left comments, I am a little biased to my home city!

— Posted by Maggie
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46.
July 11th,
2008
4:20 pm

Matt,
Nice to have run into you by chance at the “Flower’s” last week. Of course MY local informants had an entirely different take on Bucharest than YOUR local informants, but in my experience that is the nature of all travel writing and travel experience. Have fun in Vilnius, but the suggestion to extend that leg up to Tallinn (or Tartu) was not off the mark.
Dennis McDaniel

— Posted by Dennis McDaniel
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47.
July 11th,
2008
5:37 pm

Well, I’ve just come from a terrace bar with my friends. I am from Sibiu, the 2007 European capital of culture and I am sure that Romania has still many beautiful places that can be visited. I think one should visit the towns from Transylvania, because these places are the last medieval towns from Europe. Moldavia and all the rustic life here in Romania are the only way one could experience an old European culture. On the other hand, I am worried about the fact that the number of tourists has increased in Romania, and very soon we may become alert about the threat of the villages and the nature here.
As for Bucharest, give it 5 years!

— Posted by Adrian
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48.
July 11th,
2008
5:48 pm

I felt good in all my three stays in Bucharest. I agree with both those who say it’s a junkyard, and with those who find charm in it. That’s Bucharest :)
I know Romanians are quite sensitive when it comes on talking about their country in international media, but I have to agree with Matt here. Often, in Romania… normality means avantgarde.

As a foreigner, three years ago I had hard times finding a decent place in the city’s center for a beer among the few visible smoky bars. Now I can say there are plenty of open air places in the city’s center so I don’t have to get inside a loud bar if I dont like it. I love the two sidewalk bars behind the Atheneum, who opened last year. And even the famous Lipscani got a bit of outdoor life, since I last came here in 2005. That’s change, and it’s good!

In a couple of years, Bucharest will probably open even more to foreign visitors. It’ll probably become less interesting than it’s now. But, that’s a “work in progress”.

Cheers!

PS: Ahh, Romanian women are very pretty

— Posted by Oskar
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49.
July 12th,
2008
3:18 am

Nice to see a fair opinion about my city in NYT. Glad you enjoyed your stay here. Maybe in a few years you’ll find out a new city, things sure happen fast here you know.

— Posted by http://moshcalifar.wordpress.com/
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50.
July 12th,
2008
3:19 am

If Bucharest is on the cutting edge, does anyone know if there is a gay scene there? I heard that it was pretty bad, and lots of regressive ‘tude there.

— Posted by stud
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51.
July 12th,
2008
4:48 am

Long live Romania!

— Posted by Ioana
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52.
July 12th,
2008
5:48 am

Yup. As plenty of posters above, I have to address this inaccuracy: Bucharest was always a city of terase and crashme and other outside-dwelling hanging places.

Your guide might be slightly right: during Communist times sometimes these large instances of socialization were frowned upon. “Persecuted” is too harsh a word. Perhaps better “not encouraged”. But to say that they didn’t exist, or that they were banned and didn’t appear until three years ago, it’s simply preposterous. Comme on! It’s like saying that Buenos Aires of the ’80s, during other totalitarian times, had no restaurants and bars. Hei, Borges! Twist in thy grave… :)

Except for that, a fairly balanced, if not slightly tourist-oriented, approach. Bucharest can be sometimes a hell of a place, some other times a beauty and a bliss. Just like any other big city, fellas. It doesn’t have unique cultural or urban points of interest, such as Tour Eiffel or Chrysler Building or such, but it’s definitely a place full of energy and raw life. Just like good ol’ Ankh-Morpork. That’s why we love to hate it, but we live in it.

Oook! :) :wink:

— Posted by Turambar
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53.
July 12th,
2008
10:41 am

Bucharest, where a power washer has never seen the light of day, where people do not speak to strangers but everyone is kind to the stray dogs, where customer service is non-existant. I was there and had to call my bank to assure them that it really was me draining my account from ATMs all over Bucharest. Bank of America is notoriously poor at customer care, cold and abrupt but it was a rare pleasure to speak with someone who asked me to “Have a nice day”. Yes, the National Museum has many treasures, but most are lit with spotlights, giving mew meaning to “reflecting on a painting”. And finally, the staff at the US Embassy must all share earlier career screw ups because there they all are, stationed in Bucharest and mostly all pissed off and refusing to provide service to anyone, including US citizens. A post in Bucharest is not a promotion for any of them and it shows. Go there is you must, as I did, but there are so many other better choices.

— Posted by Il Pense
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54.
July 12th,
2008
10:52 am

The most beautiful part of Romania is Transylvania where a large number of people are ethnic Hungarians and speak Hungarian. I frequently travel to a small village in Transylvania where everyone in the village speaks Hungarian. The relationship between Romanians and Hungarians is strained and difficult in this part of Romania. When I’m in Bucharest and I say hello or thank you in Hungarian, I receive a hostile look in response - that says everything about the tense relationship between the two groups.
Jane

— Posted by Jane Sherman